San Giovanni in Monterrone

The crypt of San Giovanni in Monterrone is one of the oldest rock churches in Matera. It is entirely carved into the Monterrone, the tufa rock that overlooks the Sasso Caveoso and the Casalnuovo district, and it is connected to the church of Santa Maria de Idris, which is where you enter.

History

Archaeological research, the dating of the frescoes and the few written documents point to a period between the 12th and 13th centuries for the church. It was abandoned a long time ago, and at the beginning of the 19th century it was annexed to Santa Maria de Idris. To connect the two churches, a narrow corridor was dug out, which however almost completely destroyed several frescoes, of which small traces remain on the left wall and on some stones of the presbytery.

In 1972, during the years when the Sassi were abandoned, the Soprintendenza (heritage authority) had the fresco of Saint John the Baptist that was in the corridor removed, to save it from decay and vandalism.

What to see

It is a small treasure chest of medieval painting, with Byzantine-style frescoes partly overlaid over time:
• The Christ Pantocrator from the 12th century, on the left as you enter from Santa Maria de Idris.
• The Archangel Michael and Saint Nicholas of Myra, from the 13th century, in a niche.
• Saint James the Great and Saint Peter, from the 13th century: Saint Peter has a decorated halo of Cypriot origin.
• An Annunciation from the 12th century, with the Baptism of Christ in the Jordan above it.
• Saint Onuphrius and a young saint, from the 16th century, and other 13th-century frescoes with Saint Jerome, Saint Andrew and a Madonna and Child.

The frescoes are protected and photography is not allowed inside.

How to get there

• On foot: you enter from Santa Maria de Idris, at the top of the Monterrone, by climbing the staircase from Piazza San Pietro Caveoso.
• By car: cars do not enter the Sassi; it is best to leave it in the car parks of the new town.

Useful information

• You visit with the same ticket as Santa Maria de Idris, managed by the cooperative Oltre l’Arte.
• Nearby are the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario and Santa Lucia alle Malve.