Sasso Barisano

The Sasso Barisano is the larger of the two ancient districts of Matera, the Sassi carved into the rock along the gorge and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. It stretches north-west of the Civita, the hill where the Cathedral stands, and takes its name from the road that led out of the city towards Bari.

History

The caves of the gorge were inhabited since prehistoric times. The word “Sasso” to indicate a district of inhabited stone first appears in a document from 1204. In the Middle Ages, two quarters grew up around the Norman Civita: the Barisano to the north and the Caveoso to the south. Over the centuries the caves were closed off by masonry façades, floors, courtyards and staircases were added, and the district became richer in palaces, churches and carved portals.

In the twentieth century the Sassi were overcrowded and lacked basic services. After the writings of Carlo Levi and the visit of Alcide De Gasperi, the special law of 1952 began the relocation of residents: between 1952 and 1965, around fifteen thousand people left the cave houses for the new neighbourhoods. Restoration began with the law of 1986. Today the Sasso Barisano is the most restored district: the caves have come back to life as homes, hotels, restaurants and craft workshops.

What to see

• The landscape of rooftops and staircases, which can be seen in full from the viewpoint in Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
• The carved portals and friezes of the houses and palaces, more numerous than in the Caveoso.
• The rock church of San Pietro Barisano, the largest rock church in the city, with the underground scolatoi (drainage channels).
• The Palombaro Lungo, the great cistern beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, on the upper edge of the district.
• The workshops selling ceramics, papier-mâché and tufa along the main streets.

Getting there

• On foot: from the “al piano” (the flat, upper part of town), go down from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, where the descent into the district begins.
• By car: cars cannot enter the Sassi, except for residents. It is best to leave your car in one of the car parks in the new town and walk down.
• By train and bus: Matera Centrale station on the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane line is a few minutes’ walk from Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Useful information

• The district is always accessible and is visited on foot: there are many steps, so comfortable shoes are essential.
• At sunset and in the evening, with the lights on, the Barisano is at its best.
• To visit the rock churches, cave houses and museums together, it is worth setting aside at least one full day for the Sassi.