Province of Matera
Aliano
The village of the badlands and Carlo Levi
Discover Aliano
Aliano stands on a clay spur between the Agri and Sauro valleys, surrounded by the calanchi: white and grey badland hills carved by the rain, whose colours change minute by minute at sunset.
The writer and painter Carlo Levi was exiled here in 1935–36, and this is the village he describes in «Christ Stopped at Eboli». In the old town you can visit the house where he lived, the art gallery with his works and the Museum of Peasant Life; Levi is buried in the small cemetery overlooking the badlands. The village is also home to the Paul Russotto Museum.
Aliano is best explored slowly and on foot: viewpoints over the calanchi, houses with their old chimneys, simple country cooking and, in summer, festivals that bring writers, musicians and travellers to the village.
What to see in a day
- Carlo Levi's house of exile, where the writer lived in 1935 and 1936
- The Carlo Levi Art Gallery, with paintings and works linked to the village
- The Museum of Peasant Life, with the tools and daily life of the past
- Carlo Levi's grave, in the small cemetery overlooking the badlands
- The Paul Russotto Museum
- The viewpoints over the badlands (calanchi), to explore on foot through the village
When to go
In spring the badlands are green, in summer white and golden, in autumn the light is soft: every season has its colour. In summer Aliano hosts meetings and festivals that bring writers, musicians and travellers. In February there is the historic Carnival, with its horned masks.
Getting there
By car: about an hour and a half from Matera and from Potenza. Aliano pairs well with Craco, Stigliano and the other villages of the Collina Materana.
What to eat
Lucanian peasant cooking: hand-made pasta, pulses, cured meats, crunchy dried peppers and cheeses, in the village trattorias.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Aliano linked to Carlo Levi?
The writer was exiled to Aliano by the Fascist regime in 1935–1936 and told its story in "Christ Stopped at Eboli". He is buried in the village cemetery, as he wished.
What are the Aliano badlands?
Clay hills eroded by the rain into ridges and deep furrows. Around Aliano they form a unique landscape, best seen at sunset.
How long do you need to visit Aliano?
Half a day is enough for the museums, Carlo Levi's house and the viewpoints; a full day lets you add Craco or a walk in the badlands.
When is the Aliano Carnival?
During the Carnival season, in February or early March, with its typical colourful horned masks.
On the map
- Things to see
- Where to eat
- Where to stay
- Local products
Things to see in Aliano
Where to eat in Aliano
Where to stay in Aliano
Local products in Aliano
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